The Killing Fields

22 August 2008
It was an early start for me this morning as I had arranged with Hen that he would pick me up at nine o’clock. I had to get more medication for my eyes and so far any pharmacy I enquired at didn’t supply it. I also wondered if Hen had come up trumps and got a sim-card for me. The main agenda of the day though was to visit the killing fields of Choeung Ek.
Finishing off my breakfast cup of coffee I saw Hen appear in the lobby at nine on the dot. As Choeung Ek is outside the city and we would be encountering a lot of dust and manic drivers Hen supplied me with a helmet and face mask for the journey. With me looking like a demented Power Ranger we set off through the capital city of Phnom Penh, past the victory monument, past the royal palace with its silver pagoda and on out into the countryside. I have said it before and I’ll say it again, the traffic here is absolutely crazy. The largest or the quickest have right of way, most of the time that is. Sitting on the back of the scooter I was amazed to see people on bicycles shoot right out into oncoming traffic without a second glance. The traffic didn’t stop; it simply slowed down and went around them. At one point there was no road, just a dirt track that all the scooters, motorcycles, cars and trucks bounced over. I hope to have posted a brief video of the traffic so that you can see what I am talking about. Believe it or not I actually saw somebody carrying a fridge on the back of their motorbike.
Eventually we got outside the city and it wasn’t long before we reached our destination. Between 1975 and 1978 about 17,000 men, women, children and infants, who had been detained and tortured at S-21 were transported to the extermination camp of Choeung Ek. They were often bludgeoned to death to avoid wasting precious bullets. The remains of 8985 people, many of whom were bound and blindfolded, were exhumed in 1980 from mass graves. I have taken many photos of the graves and the pictures should be on my photo website, soon. http://picasaweb.google.com/colinjcannon
Upon first entering the site I came to a stupa (like a monument / small temple). I was asked to pay a few Riel (4000 riel = $1.00US) and I was then given an incense stick and some flowers to lay before the stupa in honour of the murdered. More than 8000 skulls, arranged by sex and age, are visible behind the clear glass panels of the stupa. It was harrowing to realise that this mass genocide took place during my life time; I vaguely recalled being a schoolboy and swapping Cambodian jokes with the other innocent children at primary school.
Not all of the mass graves have been exhumed as yet so God only knows how many are still buried beneath the earth. There is a tranquil feeling about the place, it is peaceful and serene but this hides the horrors that took place here just over 30 years ago. Upon approaching any of the graves a notice will tell you how many were exhumed and what condition they were found in. As stated most of them were found to be bound and blindfolded. The notice on one grave indicated that all the bodies exhumed from this particular grave had no heads. There is a tree were children used to be tied to and then beaten to death. Another tree used to hold the loudspeaker that played music so loud that the screams and moans of the condemned couldn’t be heard.
In a way I felt bad taking pictures as if I was a tourist in Disneyland but I had to have something to remember this visit. I asked Hen whether he had relations or family members caught up in this nightmare. ‘Of course’, he replied, ‘everyone did’. I didn’t question him any further as I don’t think he wanted to talk about it. We then walked around the perimeter of the complex. It is enclosed with a wire fence. As we walked I saw children on the other side of the fence beckoning to me. When I got close they asked me to take their picture and show it to them. I took the photo but before I got close to them Hen held me back and said that there was a danger one of them would grab the camera and run. We walked on further; one of the girls climbed a tree and jumped over the fence to follow us. Hen turned around and scolded her in Khymer; eventually she stopped following us.
After completing the circuit I bought a book about Pol Pot in the souvenir shop and we sat down to have a refreshing drink. Hen had indeed come up trumps and supplied me with a sim-card. I now have three sim-cards; one for Ireland, one for Thailand and one for Cambodia. An amputee approached me on his crutches, his cap held out before him looking for some money. Swatting the flies away from my orange drink I gave him a dollar with which he seemed very happy.
Back through the crazy traffic and now began the search for a reputable pharmacy. I had found the address of the American Medical Bureau in a tourist information pamphlet and Hen had an idea of where it could be. The numbers of buildings in address listings are of no real use in Phnom Penh as each building chooses whatever number it wants. Therefore number 104 Rue de Michel could be next door to 32 Rue de Michel. A lot of the streets still have French names carried over from the French occupation in the last century. The only clue I had was that it was near the Cambodia Hotel. When we got to the Hotel Hen asked a tuk-tuk driver if he knew where the pharmacy was. After a brief conversation Hen said that the tuk-tuk driver believed it to be across the road in the massage parlour facing us. ‘Christ’, I thought to myself, ‘if I don’t get my medication soon I could be in trouble’. ‘If I start frequenting massage parlours I will also be in trouble, either way I will go blind’.
There was a number supplied with the address and I asked Hen to ring it. Turned out the pharmacy is in the hotel. When we eventually got there it was a relief to enter a seriously air conditioned room. I wrote the name of my medication on a piece of paper and handed it over the counter. In perfect English the Cambodian pharmacist asked me if I knew the generic name of the drug. ‘Shit on a stick’, I thought to myself, ‘why didn’t I bring the leaflet from the last prescription with me?’ I explained what the drug was for and what it did but it was no use she needed to know the generic name of the drug before she could prescribe. I turned to Hen and asked him to drive me back to the hotel and then back to the pharmacy. The man has the patience of a saint and is a true gentleman. Back to the hotel, a quick sprint up the four flights of stairs to my room, (the hotel Anise has no lift) a frantic search for the leaflet, a quick scoot back to the pharmacy only to be told that they would have to make a few phone calls to see if they could obtain the medication. They took my number and said they would ring me tomorrow.
Back at the hotel and after slipping Hen a few dollars I retired to my room for a cold shower and then sat on the balcony to catch up with adventures of the Count of Monte Cristo. I fell asleep half way through a chapter were the Count is slowly but steadily building up Monsieur Danglers for a big fall that will surely ruin him financially and consequently go some way to exacting revenge on the jealous sailor who was instrumental in the false imprisonment of our hero.
I was awoken by the ringing of my mobile phone. Who was crazy enough to ring me from home I thought. Nobody, it would seem, you all know better. It was the pharmacy telling me that they had my medication and could I come and pick it up. The cost was $45 US. Not bad, cheaper than at home. So one quick tuk-tuk journey later, with the usual near death experiences, my eyeballs were treated to the one thing that would stop the onslaught of glaucoma.
Not a very exciting or interesting story folks but I’m getting addicted to this writing malarkey and I find it hard to stop once I get started. If you have read this far I thank you. As I am writing I am sitting outside the bar typing on my laptop and sipping on my second gin and tonic. Oh the memories I shall have when the lean days come to visit me again in the future.
Until next time folks, remember that life is like a cup of tea; it is how you make it.

Cambodia

21 August 2008

I arrived in Phnom Penh last night during a thunder and lightning storm. In the airport I had to fill out an application form for a visa. After this I collected my luggage and headed for the exit. I was stopped and asked for my arrival card. I said I had no arrival card. This guy in a bad mood gave me a card to fill out; it was looking for the exact same information I filled out on the visa form. I had to find my plane ticket to again write down my flight number on the form, I had to again find the address of the hotel I was staying in and again write down my passport number. As I searched through my pockets for the required information the same guy muttered something in Khymer and took the half filled form back from me and waved me on. As I passed through customs I was asked for my completed customs form. I shrugged my shoulders to indicate that I didn’t have one. I was given a form to fill out that, guess what, asked me for all the same information again.
When I got to arrivals, thankfully, my arranged pick up was there. The taxi driver’s name is Sarat and he offered to show me around the city. I thanked him and said I would keep his kind offer in mind. When we arrived at the hotel Sarat helped me to carry my bags into the lobby. The usual formality of signature, sight of credit card and photocopying of passport was observed and then I was shown to my room.
The hotel advertised that there is free internet access in the room. I couldn’t get it working, nor could I get the safety deposit box working either. I rang room service and a guy called Hen arrived. He managed to get the deposit box working for me but not the internet. Hen offered to show me around the city over the next few days if I liked.

After a quick shower I decided to have a beer or two in the bar in anticipation of a good night’s sleep. One of the bar men, his name is Rey, basically stood at the bar with me for the evening. He asked about Ireland and then spent most of his time explaining that he was in University and had to support his grandparents, his parents and his sister. He only worked in the bar once maybe twice a week, he asked me for my phone number because he wanted to be my friend and show me around the city.
As I sat at the bar and looked around me I noticed that I was the only customer and there were six members of staff floating around. All male, all waiting to change my ashtray or pour me another drink should I want one. Rey had the monopoly because, as I said, he stood across the bar from me for the whole time I was there. I hope they have women in Cambodia! The bar closed at 11.00pm sharp. Rey finished at 10.50, disappeared for a few minutes to change out of his uniform and reappeared to sit at the bar with me. He politely refused the offer of a drink but gave me his phone number should I need any assistance. When it was obvious that I wasn’t going anywhere that night he said goodbye and went home.
It was time for me to hit the sack. After another quick shower, were I tried to remove as much of the skin peeling off me as I could, I retired to bed with my iPod. I chose to listen to a few songs by a band called Menah. They aren’t together anymore and you won’t find any of their work in the record shops but what they produced was incredible. Frankly I believe that the minimalist soundscapes produced by the keyboard player were nothing short of genius and complimented the heart wrenching lyrics of the lead singer who was also the main songwriter.
The next day after a good night’s sleep I arranged with Hen to take me to get a sim-card for my mobile phone. When we got to the shop Hen asked me for my identity card. I explained that I didn’t have one, would my passport do? No, this wasn’t good enough; in Cambodia I needed an identity card before I could buy a sim-card. I asked how I could get an identity card and was told it was impossible for me to get an identity card. I could buy a new phone no problem, but to get a sim-card I needed an identity card. Hen suggested I hold off from buying a phone until tomorrow. In the meantime he will try to get me a sim-card some other way.
I got a good look at Phnom Penh from the back of Hen’s scooter. I said the traffic in Bangkok was bad; I take it back. The traffic here is absolutely crazy. There are not many lines on the road and people drive pretty much where and how they feel like it. Twice my knee was nearly clipped by passing vehicles; one going the same way, the other, in the opposite direction.
I asked Hen to take me to the Royal Palace to have a look and do my tourist duty. Outside I was approached by a girl of about 7 years of age. She was trying to sell me water. ‘No thanks’, I said. ‘Maybe later’, she said, ‘Call me’, and she raised her extended thumb and little finger to her head imitating using a phone. Her smile would melt the iciest of hearts. We had a look around the palace and I took a few photos, the usual tourist stuff. I asked Hen about the killing fields and he suggested that we do that tomorrow as it is bit outside the city and we could spend a few hours there. In the meantime he had to get to work. We left the palace and headed back towards his scooter. As soon as I was outside on the pavement again the little girl appeared and said, ‘Now it is later’. I gave her a thousand riels for the bottle of water, she said that the water in fact cost two thousand riels. I gave her another thousand riels and said goodbye. I immediately asked Hen if the water was safe to drink. He said it was so I got stuck in as the heat and pollution from the traffic had given me a fierce thirst.
Back in my bedroom and looking out over the city from my balcony it is very obvious that this country is a lot poorer than Thailand. I think that after two or three days here there will be nothing left to see. I am looking forward to the work I have signed up for in Siem Reap as it will give me some sort of structure to work with on a day to day basis. As it stands at the moment it is 6.00pm and I am wondering what to do for the evening. Of course I could go walk about and find a bar. The hotel asks that anyone staying out after nine o’clock in the evening signs out, this is for safety reasons. While travelling alone has its benefits sometimes it would be nice to have a companion or indeed a few companions to travel with; safety in numbers and all that.
I will sign off for now and see if I can get the internet sorted out in my room.

The Barber of Bangkok

Well it's Tuesday evening and my last night in Thailand; for a while anyway. Thankfully the worst of the sunburn has now passed and I'm starting to feel human again. I did a small bit of exploring today by foot. I walked around the streets near where I have been staying and my opinion is still the same; this city is chaotic. I had to take a taxi the other day to get to the office of Etihad in order to change the date of my flight home and as a result I got a good view of the city from the relative safety of the passenger seat. I say relative safety in that all the drivers on the road are crazy (ting tong, there's a bit of Thai for you folks). I thought the traffic in Chiang Mai was bad but it is nothing compared to Bangkok. Once or twice while in the car I braced myself for collision with other cars or motorbikes. We got so close to another taxi when turning a corner that I couldn't fit my credit card between the gap if I had tried. Thankfully, walking on the footpath is slightly safer and as I said I walked for a bit today.

Apart from the filth, traffic congestion, noise and air pollution I suppose it's not too bad. Moving away from the tourist area of Kao San road you can get to see ordinary everyday Thais going about their business. I saw busloads of Thais getting from A to B, not a sign of a farang on the buses, schoolchildren walked by laughing and joking, old women stood sat outside the flats where I assume they live. One woman sat outside with an old singer sewing machine readjusting the length of a pair of jeans while three other women sat around an older woman who was telling fortunes with an ordinary pack of cards.

I stood for a while and lit up a cigarette. Nobody approached me trying to sell me something; that was a nice change. Thankfully it was overcast and the sun didn't burn me the way it had on previous days. It was still hot though and I removed my cap to wipe my brow. As I did this I noticed a barber shop across the road. A shaved head is always cooler and I immediately risked my life by hopping, skipping and jumping across the road.

When I entered the establishment I was greeted by three Thai men who were all in their sixties at least. They sat under the air conditioning watching the gymnastics on the TV; for this was the time of the Olympics in Beijing. Using my usual mime of shaving my head to indicate what I wanted, one of the gentlemen motioned towards one of the chairs in front of the mirrors. As per usual he had to wipe the sweat off my head before he could start the shearing. Looking in the mirror I could see that one of the men had fallen asleep while the other continued to watch the TV and hold a broken conversation with my barber. When the job was done the barber ran his hand around my chin and asked if I would like a shave too. Sure why not?

The chair was tilted right back and as I faced the ceiling my hands went instinctively to my crotch and the pocket containing my wallet. I did get a better view of the telly though. I admit my heart did start to beat a bit faster when I saw he had one of those cut-throat razors in his hand.

He spent a lot longer shaving me than I would actually spend myself and the result was also better than the one I would get shaving myself. He actually got a scissors and with the level and steady hand of a surgeon cut the hairs protruding from my nasal cavities. When he straightened the chair back up he washed my whole head with a damp towel and then gave me a quick neck and shoulder massage. For services rendered he charge me the princely sum of 140 Baht (2.80 euro). I remember when I lived in Cavan getting my head shaved in Kells for 9 euro! I thanked him and gave him 200 Baht.

Walking back to the hotel I felt fitter and healthier, well from the neck up in any case. It was getting dark now and that is when I feel the seedy and bad sides of Bangkok become more apparent. In Chiang Mai and Koh Samui there are stray dogs every where. Bangkok is the same but the dogs have a meaner streak. They are all filthy from living on the streets, matted fur, some with damaged eyes. One dog I saw hobbled around with a leg that had obviously been broken in the past and had received no treatment. It had set itself at a very awkward angle and the dog hobbled along looking for scraps of food.

Someone approached me and asked if I would like a woman. I shook my head, making sure not to make eye contact. I continued walking. 'You want some good pussy', he said. I continued walking. 'No sexual', he said, 'you ting tong'. (There's that word again). I just kept walking.

It has been a great two months in Thailand, it is a fascinating country. The people are very warm and friendly, especially the ones who aren't trying to rip you off. It is a country of beauty, beautiful people, beautiful mountains, temples, islands, scenery, countryside. It is a land of smiles; the Thais like a good laugh. It is a hard and poor country for many Thais to live in. From conversations I have had with locals most of them seem to work seven days a week, making very little money. Most of them have never been outside Thailand, the cost of travelling being much too prohibitive. I would definitely like to come back to Thailand again and spend more time here someday.

A new adventure begins tomorrow when I enter the Kingdom of Cambodia.

Bangkok burns

First off a quick post script for Koh Samui. Quite a lot of people holidaying on the island rent scooters and motorbikes to traverse the island. I have practically no experience of riding a motorbike but I was tempted to hire one. I am glad to say that in the end I didn't. While I was there I was made aware of at least three different accidents involving Thai cars and farang motorbikes. I got to see the aftermath of the worst of these incidents.
It happened around 7.00am and involved a jeep and a scooter. Somehow they collided and the jeep hit a pole. I'm not sure if it was a telegraph pole or if it was supporting electrical cables. The pole collapsed and plunged into a shop next to a 7-Eleven store. At the very same time a Thai woman, who was returning home from giving alms to the monks, called into the 7-Eleven. Apparently she was hit by the cables and subsequently electrocuted. To my knowledge she is still lying unconcious in hospital with very serious third degree burns.
As I have said, I got to see the aftermath of this horrific accident. The shop next to the 7-Eleven was totally burned to the ground and outside could still be found the charred remains of the jeep and the scooter. Yes, I'm glad I decided not to rent a motorbike.

It is my second night in Bangkok and to be honest I am suffering from burns myself. Not to the extent of that unfortunate woman on Koh Samui obviously; but nevertheless I am genuinely in pain. The full extent of my sunburn has only now become apparent. When naked, (not a pretty sight normally), I resemble one of those Tom & Jerry Nougat bars I used to love as a child. The contrast on my body being more pronounced though. From the waist down I am white as a bottle of milk. From the waist up I could pass for a lobster with my pulsating red soreness.
It is very painful for me turn over in the bed at night. It is excruciating to get either dressed or undressed. Today, making sure I was totally covered and protected from the sun, I ventured forth to get cream to soothe the pain. The heat of the sun through my clothes was unbearable on my skin and I had to scurry from the shade of one shopfront to another in order to reach my goal. The skin on my face is starting to peel, particularly around my lips and chin. On the crowded streets of Bangkok if someone bumps against me is makes me want to scream with the pain! I am expecting to wake up over the next few days and find sheets of my own skin left in the bed when I get up. People, hear me now! Don't ever drink all night and then go for a swim at a beautiful Thai beach. It's just not worth it.
I have resolved to stay indoors for the next few days, venturing forth only when it is dark. I need my skin to heal as soon as possible. To this end I have bought a copy of the unabridged version of The Count of Monte Cristo. It totals 1,100 pages and already I am engrossed in it and find it hard to put down.
My Thai visa runs out soon and I have decided to visit Cambodia. I am signing up to do voluntary work for four weeks while there. Over the next few days I will have to sort out paperwork - visa, accommodation and flights. I intend to spend some time in Phnom Penh first and then move onto Siem Reap where I am due to do the voluntary work.
Will keep you guys posted.

Goodbye to Koh Samui

15/08/08

Well folks Koh Samui was a bit of a blur. If you can remember your time in Koh Samui then you weren't really there; or something like that.
I will just try to list things as I remember them before I forget them. Obviously the outstanding memory is the welcome I received from Graham and Raph in the Frog and Gecko pub. Steven and Mary drank in the same pub when they were there last year on honeymoon. I was lucky enough to be there when Graham was celebrating his birthday and also the tenth anniversary of the Frog and Gecko. They laid on a buffet and music was provided by a guy named Joe who is a native of Cork. I met many interesting characters while drinking there. Jack is from New Zealand and managed to antagonise most people who drank there. I got talking to a few ex-pats that were running their own business in Samui, mainly bars or restaurants. I remember talking to a guy called Mark who was classically trained on the guitar and he played with Joe on the night of the party. It turns out Mark is just as big a nut about the Beatles as I am. We talked about the fab four into the early hours of the morning.
I spoke to a guy called Malcolm, he owns the Italian restaurant up the road from the Frog and Gecko. He gave me a few pointers about submitting articles to magazines in Thailand. Other people I got on first name terms with were Nigel, Adrian and Teem. Teem is a Thai women who was originally married to an Irish man from Dun Laohaire. She would stand at the bar with me and recall fondly her memories of walking the pier. She was also impressed with the sea food around Sandycove.
At one stage I got coerced into going to look at a new hotel that was being built on the island. I figured I had nothing to lose so went along with it. I was picked up by taxi and taken to one of the highest points on the island. This new hotel was beautiful, the lift that took me to the third floor was made of glass and was on the outside of the building. The view from the balcony was breathtaking. I was kicking myself that I had't brought my camera with me. Basically the whole scheme was a time share thing and after they interviewed me and I told them I had no job they realised they would be wasting their time with me. No harm done. They gave me a voucher for a free meal and dropped me back to my lodgings. I had a big fat juicy steak that night folks.

On my penultimate night I got the chance to be a team member on the Frog and Gecko team for the weekly pub quiz. We won by quite a good margin. I managed to leave the pub at roughly 9 o'clock the next morning and decided to go for a swim. I spent the morning on the beach, finishing off with a massage. Of course later on I noticed that my chest, stomach and back were totally sunburnt. What a drunken idiot! It is sore for me at the moment even when turning around in the bed.

If possible, I would like to go back to Koh Samui before I go home. I also told Maam, one of the girls working in the F & G that I would be coming back to marry her, she said that was no problem but I had to produce 1 million baht first. I am working on that.

As I write I am in Bangkok in a cyber cafe and there is torrential rain falling with accompanying thunder and lightening. A sharp contrast to the beach on which I got toasted. I am going to have an early night with a good book and hope the sun burn clears up soon.

My thoughts are with every one at home, particularly Steven and Mary, who have just entered parenthood. It is always great to recieve emails from everyone so keep them coming please. Cheers.

Koh Samui

Hi folks,

I haven't posted for a while but I have been too busy debauching myself. What an island, what an island. It is about 9.20am as I am posting and I am at the tail end of a 12 hour drink fest in the Frog and Gecko. I blame all my happiness and alcoholism on the Frog and Gecko. Expertly managed by Raphael and Graham. I strongly urge anyone who visits Koh Samui to visit the Frog and Gecko in Bo Phut (I'm talking about you Alison and Paul Deery). They have really made a lone traveller feel very welcome.

I will sign off for now cos I'm so locked but there are plenty of pictures to be seen at the weblink given before. See ya soon.

Colin

Goodbye to Chiang Mai

03/08/08

I spent the day before I left Chiang Mai with a very special woman. She has a good heart and it was a privilege for me to have met her. Her Thai nick name is Pony, (pronounced Poo – nee). She owns a bar that myself and Aaron frequented and then subsequently after Aaron went to Taiwan I frequented on my own. The bar is just off the night market and is contained within in a group of other bars.
At times Pony can look very serious but she is always quick with a laugh. Pretty much like me I suppose. We have had many conversations where I am looking puzzled and she is laughing. It is always the same, she is giggling and I am trying to explain that I don’t understand what she is talking about. This just seemed to make her laugh louder and harder. We had a running joke together. Whenever I was sitting at the bar I was always approached by children selling flowers or people begging. They would hand a flower to me and say, ‘Ten baht’. Whenever Pony put more peanuts in the dish or changed the CD when I asked her to she, would reply, ‘Ten baht’, and break into peals of laughter.
One night when everyone else was gone we continued talking as she closed the bar. We had been talking about Chiang Mai and the many temples there. I offered to buy Pony a drink but she declined. She said she is a good Buddhist and doesn’t drink alcohol. When I mentioned that I would like to see Doi Inthanon she offered to take me there for the day.
Doi Inthanon National Park boasts Thailand’s highest peak. It is about 60 Km outside of Chiang Mai and another 25 Km up. There are many waterfalls and an abundance of wildlife including monkeys, birds and it is also one of the last habitats of the Asiatic black bear. About 4 km from the top of the mountain is Phra Mahathat Naphamethanidon, a chedi built by the Royal Thai Air Force to commemorate the king’s 60th birthday in 1989. There is one Chedi for the king and one for the queen.
Pony arranged a driver for us. His name is Nong and his sister is at present working in a Thai restaurant in Ballybofey. Small world. We set off at nine a.m. and left the city of Chiang Mai behind us for the day. When we got there and started to ascend the mountain I could appreciate why Pony said her car wouldn’t cope with the drive. It was a very steep climb, more so than Doi Suthep. When we got to the Chedi I knelt beside Pony as she prayed before the statue of Buddha. I looked around the ceiling where paintings depicted the life of Buddha. Thankfully the air was cool and moist. I was unable to see down the mountain because we had ascended above a thick layer of mist and all that was visible was a carpet of forest over the adjacent mountains. Nong stayed in the car and left Pony and I to walk around together taking in the sites.
After seeing the Chedi we ascended to the very highest peak in Thailand, as you can see from the photo I made sure to get a picture to prove I was there. Some Japanese tourist was good enough to take the photo for me. After this we paused for a coffee and sat in silence while drinking. I always find it refreshing to meet people who can sit in silence and not feel the need to talk when it isn’t really necessary.
Nong then brought us to a market which was mainly selling fresh fruit and vegetables, (not really my scene folks) but I did pick up a cool ashtray which has a skeleton figurine lying in the base of the ashtray. Very symbolic of the nicotine habit I thought. Of course, being Thai, Pony and Nong made sure to buy some fresh vegetables while there. On this note, being around Thais has made me aware of how fat and unhealthy I really am. I find it next to impossible to guess the age of any Thai person; they all look so healthy and young. I am sure this is from their diet of fruit, vegetables and grasshoppers. After the market we stopped off for something to eat at a restaurant on the side of the mountain. The restaurant is beside a large acreage of flower beds that supply the Chiang Mai market. Nong said that they used to grow opium here until the authorities cracked down on it. Of course being on the side of Thailand’s largest mountain it was unlikely that I would get a batter burger and chips. I ordered noodle soup and hoped for the best. Let’s just say that I made an attempt but didn’t even get half way through it.
Next stop was one of the main waterfalls on the mountain. Think Powerscourt but much more exotic. Pony and I held hands as we walked by the cascading water and held on to each other at the slippery parts of the path even though it wasn’t really necessary. I wanted to record a brief movie of the waterfall so I turned on the video facility on my camera and handed it to Pony to record me standing in front of the waterfall. Of course I don’t know the Thai for, ‘Please Pony can you record a short movie of me standing in front of Nam Tok Wachiratan Waterfall’? So when I handed the camera to Pony she assumed she was taking a photo of me. More peals of laughter when she realised what had happened. If anyone is interested I have a short movie of me standing in front of the waterfall but it plays on its side rather than straight up.
There were other waterfalls to see and Nong was willing to take me to them. In fact Nong was very obliging and offered to take me to numerous places that day. Places that were many miles away from where we were. I said that one waterfall was enough thanks and that maybe I would like to see some elephants. No problem for Nong, it was about 30 km from where we were but he was happy to oblige. Taking a short cut I got to see lots of paddy fields at the foot of Doi Inthanon and many small farms dotted about the place. It reminded me of films such as ‘Apocalypse Now’ and all those other Vietnam movies. Unfortunately the road Nong was hoping to take had been closed. This meant back tracking and then adding a further 20 km to our journey. Nong was happy to oblige but I said that maybe I had enough for one day as I was tired and I was also aware of the fact that Pony had to work that night.
I was dozing off in the car as we drove back to Chiang Mai. Silence reigned, broken only by the occasional snippets of conversation between my two Thai friends. Nong left us back to the place he picked us up and then Pony dropped me back to the hotel I was staying in. I insisted that Pony let me buy her dinner in the hotel. She went home and changed and I made an effort also by showering, shaving and putting on fresh clothes. What a man, eh?
We had dinner and as I am writing this it has occurred to me that that day has been the only day so far in Thailand that I have not drank any alcohol. I had a juicy big steak and Pony had some vegetarian stuff. After dinner the idea was that Pony would go to work and I would accompany her by sitting on the customer side of the bar. It didn’t work out that way. At the time Chiang Mia was undergoing one of its rainy season deluges and so we repaired to my room and I snoozed on my bed as Pony was held in a trance watching some Thai soap opera on the television. When it comes to really bad ham acting soap operas Thailand is up there with the best of them.
Pony never got to work that night. I had already booked my flight to Koh Samui for the following morning so we spent our time together late into the night talking and stuff. It’s a pity that I didn’t get to know Pony earlier in my time spent in Chiang Mai. As I said she is a very special woman and I will always remember the time I spent with her in Thailand.